another type of home brew(and a new spin on a interesting topic for this board)

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    another type of home brew(and a new spin on a interesting topic for this board)


    courtesy of anabolicextreme.com

    PHARMACEUTICAL GRADE HOME BREW
    by Roy Harper


    So you think you're a chemist just because bought a steroid kit. Everyone is doing this these days, making home made trenbolone, testosterone, deca, etc. The major differences between the product you make and the product a pharmaceutical company makes is purity and sterility. If you want an end product with better purity you'll need to start with a better powder. However for a sterile end product, this is a whole different story. With only a few extra steps you can make a high quality steroid at home that is as good as a pharmaceutical grade steroid. The ideas in this document can be used for powder kits, conversion kits, extracting kits, or even dirty gear.

    Letís start with the basics. Like any lab you're going to need a sterile environment in which to work. Now you could get out your propane torch and burn everything; this will surely kill all the bacteria, but is kind of hard on your house. So instead youíll need a cleaner that kills any bacteria. What you're going to need is a chemical that can kill the majority of bacteria (%99 - %99.99). Something like Tektrol or Isopropyl Alcohol will work fine. You could even use Benzyl Alcohol if you really wanted to. If needed dilute the chemical and put it into a sprayer for ease of use, but make sure to clean the sprayer first. Now you have your own handy dandy sterilizing cleaner! Spray this on your workspace and you'll have a cleaner work surface with fewer bacteria.

    For your tools, you are going to need them sterilized every time you use them. Most professionals use an autoclave to sterilize everything. What it does is expose the tools to excruciatingly hot steam, which invariably sterilizes anything in its path. Although I thought about making a homemade autoclave using a pressure cooker, it was far too complex. Keep in mind that in an autoclave it uses pressurized steam that is hotter than boiling water. This was quite a challenge to make a safe one, without damaging my house or myself. But an easier solution is to only use tools that are pre-sterilized and sealed. Specifically, syringes and vials. Since everything is self-contained there is no worry about contamination. Most kits come with all the necessary tools, but do not reuse them after each use. Since all these tools are cheap, buy a box or two of syringes etc. Then just use a new one when needed.

    Now for the biggest problem with making a home brew. Most people don't have access to a sterile reverse pressure fume hood. This prevents any airborne chemicals or bacteria from entering into your project. Although a professional fume hood is ideal, you can make one at home that will greatly reduce the possibility of contamination, and at a fraction of the cost! Granted this would not hold up in a real lab but it will do for home.

    To make a home made vacuum hood you will need the following:- a 1' x 1' x 1' cardboard box (The exact size doesn't matter)

    - a roll of tin foil
    - a roll of saran wrap
    - some scotch tape
    - sterilizing cleaner in a spray bottle
    - a vacuum
    - clean cloth
    - scissors
    - tie wire
    - surgical gloves

    Start by vacuuming out the cardboard box so that there is no remaining dust or other particles. Pre-prepare the tin foil by spraying it down with the cleaner and wipe the foil dry. Cut the foil into squares, you'll need anywhere from 5 - 10 depending on the size of your box. Begin to cover the inside of the box with the foil. Tape the foil to the cardboard and make sure to overlap all the seams. Do not leave any cardboard or tape exposed. You might want to cover part of the exterior, just for safety sake. If you're really paranoid then you'll want to line your box with multiple layers of tin foil.

    With the box completed, cut a hole at the top of the box, approx. the size of your vacuum hose. Make sure the hole is small enough so that only the tip of the vacuum hose will go through and not the whole thing. You might have to fiddle with it so everything doesn't fall to pieces. With some sterile foil cover both the top and bottom seams of the hole. Secure everything by taping the foil, don't worry if some of this tape is exposed. With the tie wire form four _L_ shaped hooks that are 1 inch long. Sterilize them with the cleaner and wipe them down. Tape the top of the hook to the tip of the vacuum. Space all four of the hooks equilaterally. Cut out a 2" x 2" piece of foil and sterilize it. Poke four small holes in each corner. Attach the hook part, from each hook, to the hole in the foil. If you get lost check out the diagram.











    Now that you have your vacuum foil box, you'll want to make the "glass cover". Since most of us don't have a piece of glass lying around we'll have to use saran wrap. Start by sterilizing some saran wrap. You'll need enough to cover approximately 3/4 of the front. Remember the extra space is for your hands so make the bottom larger or smaller, depending on the size of your box. Tape the saran wrap to the exterior of the box, the saran wrap should be fairly tight. Because the saran is flimsy you'll need at least two layers. But make sure it doesn't obstruct your view.

    To finish everything off you'll need to sterilize the inside. Start by putting on a new pair of surgical gloves. If needed sterilize the gloves and the sterilizing cleaner spray bottle. Then bring the spray bottle inside the box and spray everywhere and everything. Then turn on the vacuum. If the box is too wet, use a clean cloth to dry everything down. The cloth should be sterilized with the cleaner and should be slightly moist. You don't want to contaminate your area! Every time you use your brand new hood, you need to sterilize the work area. And there you go, a fume hood that can be used for all of your home made steroid projects. When itís not in use put on the coffee table, itís a great conversational piece at parties.

    Now that you have a good, clean work area you're ready to get started. Lets start with some intermediate steps in the kit process. Use the following steps where needed.

    Step 1 - Once you begin making your steroid, do not expose your solution to contaminated air. Remember you want to reduce the amount of bacteria in your product not increase it. Working under the fume hood solves most of the problems, but you do not want to leave any vial or beaker open for extended periods of time. Itís best to use tools that are self-contained and sterilized, as mentioned above.

    Step 2 - Never use a coffee filter. I know we all have them, but they are a definite no no. Instead use a pre-filter, itís similar to the syringe filter that comes with most kits except itís coarse rather than fine. They are great for removing binders and glues. Most pre-filters can handle 100ml of liquid so if you're making 25ml product you should use it as much as possible. When you reuse it go through the following process. Under the hood attach the pre filter to a new syringe. Extract the fluid and cap the syringe. Then cover the filter loosely with a piece of sterile tin foil.

    MAKE SURE THE TIN FOIL IS DRY. Remember alcohol is flammable, so if you're cleaner contains any take extra precautions. Bake the filter at 250F for 15 minutes. Repeat this process as many times until your filter has reached the maximum amount of fluid that can pass through it. Don't be stingy and reuse filters indefinitely, if can only handle 100ml only let 100ml pass through.

    Step 3 - Use the power of the filter. You can never filter you're gear enough. Using a syringe filter, the fine one, follow the instructions above in Step 2.

    Step 4 - Bake some cookies. Although these may be the worst tasting cookies you ever tasted they will get you big. At any rate, under the hood cover your gear, preferably in vials, with a piece of sterile tin foil (Make sure your vials have no plastic on it!). AGAIN, MAKE SURE THE TIN FOIL IS DRY. I can't say it enough, alcohol is flammable so if you're cleaner contains any, take extra precautions! Bake the gear at 250F for 15 minutes. Repeat 2 - 4 times, depending on how anal you are. At 250F, it is hot enough to kill the majority of bacteria and therefore sterilize the gear. Although most steroids have a lower melting point that 250F, the ester and the oil help by increasing this point well above 250F. If you have a steroid suspension (Test suspension, Winstrol, etc.), baking may cause damage to the steroid since there is no ester and oil.

    Step 5 - Use each tool once. Unless itís a filter, use syringes, vials, needles, etc. only once. You donít want to cross contaminate anything. If you reuse any tool, you may cross contaminate your gear, which will defeat the whole purpose.

    Step 6 - Always use surgical gloves. I donít care how many times you washed your hands; they are a cesspool for bacteria.

    And there you go, some high quality gear made right at home! If you got some pure powder you can make gear that rivals most pharmaceutical grade gear. By following these ideas, your end product will be better than a something made in a dirty dusty basement. That I can guarantee.

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    i personally think this is a extremely anal procedure but thought some would find it interesting
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    Originally posted by wojo
    i personally think this is a extremely anal procedure but thought some would find it interesting
    OMG I am wit ya bro.
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    Here is some interesting information on alcohol.

    Alcohols are commonly used topical disinfectants and are effective against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria and most viruses. They are not effective against bacterial spores and some viruses. Alcohols require more time to work, do not penetrate organic material and irritate tissues. Lysol, which contains 79% ethyl alcohol, is a common topical disinfectant (see Lysol reference in phenols). It should be noted that isopropyl alcohol is not considered to be a disinfectant but is commonly used at the site of an injection to remove loose organic debris.

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