Concealing the 'Goods' - AnabolicMinds.com

Concealing the 'Goods'

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    Concealing the 'Goods'


    **Long read, but one of my favorites, outlines the Do's and Dont's of hiding your goodies.

    by "Carcin Ogen" @FreakyMuscle

    Everyone who has been "around" for quite awhile has their own ideas on how to conceal their goods and has implemented some particular method to do so…or at least SHOULD have by now. Keeping your "products" in a safe location that prevents detection by those who you do not wish to see them is one of the most important aspects in having controlled substances in one's presence and on one's property. Failure to take the necessary action could cost you in the future if you are not careful. It is also ignorant of the seriousness of the "practices" many of us are in engaged in.

    Now that we have established the importance of these matters, let us see how we can possibly work on it to provide us with as much safety as possible. We have all probably heard from a friend or read from a post about a method or 2 used by another individual. What we need however are many different options that meet different criteria to be most effective. ***Please Note: The methods being discussed here are not for smuggling, but rather for proper storage at one's location.*** The criteria are as follows

    1) Total and complete concealment
    2) Storage location that is totally inconspicuous
    3) Determination of the type of storage area:

    a) quick access
    b) short term storage
    c) long term storage NOTE: Many methods fall into multiple categories.

    4) Storage location environment

    a) does it fall into the proper temperament zone of the substances recommended storage temperature range….i.e. do not bury your amps outside in negative 4 degree temps
    b) is the area free of frequent human presence…i.e. is your stash in a tissue box under the bathroom sink where company, friends, relatives, etc…may have access to
    c) is the area safe from being trampled upon…i.e. is the stash in a location where it could be possibly be damaged due to some form of pressure…I knew a guy who cut open his "pleather" chair and hid some tabs in there only to find later that he crushed 80+% of them

    5) Will the location be successful in preventing someone from discovering it…i.e. will the cops be able to find it?

    Ok, now we have established some criteria to be used as a reference in finding ourselves a suitable location for concealment. Let's take a look at and analyze a few possibilities.

    The following listings of examples have already been used by myself and many others do the highest degree of success. These methods have also been subjected to a total search of the premises by law enforcement agents who never found a thing. The search was conducted by some friends of mine who work the narcotics squad of a certain law enforcement unit. They are users themselves and many have kept their stuff in the same types of locations and used the same methods. They are quite dependable. However, let me proceed to list a few locations that almost never work. From what I was told they are searched almost all of the time. This list certainly does not cover them all.

    1) In a heating or air duct right inside the grille cover. This is found in many homes today and will almost always be searched.
    2) Inside your computer tower case, etc. The cops will seize your computer anyway to search for incriminating files, so this is a risky and usually failed attempt.
    3) Inside a shoebox buried in your closet.
    4) Inside a drawer buried under clothing.
    5) Inside a hollowed out book.
    6) Under a mattress.
    7) Taped under a desk drawer.
    8) In a refrigerator.
    9) In a flour jar or sugar jar.
    10) Inside a toilet tank.
    11) Inside a tissue box under the sink.
    12) Inside any kind of vitamin or supplement bottle, aspirin bottle, etc. They always look in these.
    13) And many others.

    Now we have an idea of what to avoid for the most point. Remember that the persons searching your place are experienced in this regard. They are not stupid. Also a big point to remember is who is doing the search. If you are just a small user, then chances are it will be locals or the Postal Inspector with some locals. The DEA and other Feds seem to get involved if there is a large amount suspected or if you are under suspicion for distribution. So, if you are distributing, take all the methods and processes to the absolute extreme for your highest chance of safety. I do not know all the laws exactly, but I am most positive that the law enforcement establishment will need to come up with some form of contraband to have any kind of case against you. Just being suspected of discussing controlled substances on a message board will not land you in jail. It is called the freedom of speech. So, the law enforcement establishment will need to locate contraband on your presence or on your property to have anything strong against you. Possession is nine-tenths of the law as the adage goes. And for hell's sake, do not carry your stuff in your car unless absolutely necessary for some reason like a change of residence. And if you have to, make it as temporary as possible and drive in an extremely conscientious manner. In other words, do not run stop signs or speed. That is a ticket to getting pulled over and possibly having your vehicle searched. Avoid it at all times if possible.

    Now let us proceed on to some ideas for concealment. As we discuss these options, we will also discuss the packaging methods of the substance…i.e. does it need to be water proof, etc…Ok, lets begin.

    A good point to remember here with all these methods is to be completely inconspicuous. So in other words, if you are going to hide your goods in a toaster, do not keep the toaster in your bedroom. While this is a ridiculous example, I think you all understand my point.

    1) Candles
    Here is one of my all-time favorites. The idea here is to hide your items in a candle. Yes, a wax candle. It works for both amps and orals. The best way is to go to a local craft store and look through all the candle making supplies. You should be able to find quite a bit depending on your locale. What you are really looking for are the various types of wax molds and the wax itself. I have not been recently to get prices on this, but I think it might be somewhat costly. But remember it is certainly worth it. You can cut costs by digging up old candles for meltdown or going to a dollar store and buying a lot of cheap ones. You can also go to flea markets and such and usually find old candles. Another option is to buy those boxes of paraffin wax at the grocery store that is used for canning food in jars. This type of wax may not work as well and you will have to add some sort of coloring to the melted paraffin to dye it.

    As far as the molds are concerned, choose a size to meet your needs. It is best to use a variety of sizes. One thing I have done is to make those long, semi-thin candles that you see around Xmas time. They were the same dark red color and then I would mix them with other unfilled candles and put them in a box marked "Christmas decorations" and store them with all the other decorations. This is damn near fool proof! If you can not purchase molds, then look for something else. You can use toilet paper cardboard rolls, paper towel rolls, etc. Just be sure to grease them before pouring in the wax. Use your imagination here. ***NOTE: Be sure to insert a damn wick! A candle with no wick is a suspicious sign to anyone searching your house!

    OK…now what we want to do is to meltdown the wax. Following the directions is the best method. You will need an old pot; an old double boiler is best. Heat the wax slowly and evenly. When it gets to the right temp, just pour it in the mold. But before this is done, you will have wanted to insert the goods and the wick. First start off with the goods. Put all orals in baggies of some sort to prevent the wax from coming in contact. The amps can just be put in or bagged if possible. The packaging must be "tight." It can not be wider than the mold so it sticks out of the finished candle. Just work with it and you will see. After everything is in, feed the wick down in and pour in the wax. Let it set for a good while until it is back to room temp. Then just slide it out or cut away the mold (depending on what type of mold you use). Then, place in a nice location in your house or in with Xmas decorations, etc. One note, do not make a "funky" colored candle and put it in with Xmas decs. Stick to dark red or maybe green.

    The MOST important aspect here is the coloration of the candle. It must be a DARK color! Many candles, if held up to the light, are translucent. So, any objects inside can be seen. Make it dark red, blue, etc. so this is eliminated.

    Now about removal of the items…it can be a pain in the ass. It depends how it is done. The mess is just in cutting all the wax away and such. Be careful if you break open the candle so as not to crack an amp! This may take a little bit, but all should be in good shape and ready for use.

    Just work with it all and you will pick it up easily.

    **Here is one of my favorite recipes: Some of you may have seen those specialty candles that are large and rectangular with 3 or 4 wicks. They are near the size of a shoebox. Some are also usually decorated by inserting flower petals and perfume. What I do is to make a mold out of this plywood or another thin, strong substance. Plexiglas and acrylic works well. I make a four-sided mold and set it on another piece of wood and clamp the mold to the bottom piece of wood, which is now acting as he bottom of the mold. You want the four sides of the mold to be sealed so wax does not leak out. Then, I melt the wax and add perfume to it (a woman's scent is preferred or some type of liquid car freshener). Mix it up well. I then proceed to add some flower petals to the bottom of the mold. Then I add some wax and then more petals and then more wax, and continue to it is filled. You want to add the wax and petals quickly so the first poured wax does not fully set up before the next layer is added. I top it off with a few more petals and the wicks can then be inserted quickly by poking them in if you wish. I prefer to get the wicks in with the first pour and then hold them up straight on each consecutive pour. When it is done, it is a work of art that is a FANTASTIC storage location. My last held 20+ amps and numerous baggies of orals. It sat on my living room coffee table for over a year. ***NOTE: It is important to leave some room towards the top of the candle free from items. This way the candles can be burned a little so it does not look new. This adds to the realism. A **** load of unburned candles around your place looks a little suspicious to a trained eye.

    When all is done, just place them in storage and place them around your house. One on the toilet, a few around the tub, on the mantle, etc… Just DO NOT place a candle in a location you would not burn it…like on top of a gas heater.

    2) Concrete / Cement Molds
    The product here is much the same as the candle product, except that you are using cement or concrete. We have all seen those decorator cement items that people use as stepping stones or flowerpot holders, etc. Look in a garden catalog and you will see them. This method was even demonstrated on a Home Channel TV show. What you need to do is to make a mold from wood or just use some other container as an already-to-go mold. I also believe these are sold as well. You can use a tin pie plate, plastic or aluminum oil pan (for draining auto oil) or anything else you can some up with. After the mold is ready, then go ahead and grease it up and make sure it is secure because cement is a heavy, dense substance. You will then want to prepare and prep the goods that will be going in. It is best to put all of them in baggies and to slightly lube them with a lube that will not degrade plastic. This should help you get the good out easier. Go buy a bag of ready-mix cement and follow the instructions. DO NOT make it too wet, but not to stiff either. When it is ready, pout it in the mold. Place the goods in the mold after you pour a few an inch of cement in first so the stuff will not protrude from the finished product. Pour in the rest. Let it get stiff enough to hold an inserted shape but not too stiff that you can no longer work with it. Then just use your imagination and decorate it. Use leaves, pine cones, acorns, etc. put a decorative impression in the cement. REMOVE THE leaves, etc. Do not leave them in like with the flowers in the candle. Use some creativity to decorate it. After it cures then remove the form and set it out on the patio, porch, flowerbed, etc… There you go. Remove your good carefully. A small note here is to possibly consider using plaster of Paris as it may make retrieval easier. A PREFERRED method is to purchase some sort of small box that you can put the goods in and then place box in the mold. Something like a cigarette case works well. Again, use your imagination.

    3) Firestarters
    The firestarters I am referring to are those that are made out of wax and sawdust. They sometimes come with their own little "matchhead" which can be struck on a matchbox to start them. I am sure they also have other ingredients as well, but we are just going to use wax and sawdust and NO striker. They can be found without strikers as well. It is best to go look for a box of these so that you can either mix the "loaded" starters with the real ones or so that you can get an idea about size. But just the same, you do not need to buy any of them either. If you do not, then just be sure that you make a few of them so it is not too suspicious. What you would then want to do is to place them in a nice place by your fireplace or wood stove. Place them in a little basket next to the kindling or in a little box next to the kindling. I am sure you get the idea. ***NOTE: Do not use this method if you would not normally have a need for firestarters..i.e. you have no fireplace or woodstove.*** Ok, now lets move on to the process of making them.

    The firestarters I am referring to are those that are made out of wax and sawdust. They sometimes come with their own little "matchhead" which can be struck on a matchbox to start them. I am sure they also have other ingredients as well, but we are just going to use wax and sawdust and NO striker. They can be found without strikers as well. It is best to go look for a box of these so that you can either mix the "loaded" starters with the real ones or so that you can get an idea about size. But just the same, you do not need to buy any of them either. If you do not, then just be sure that you make a few of them so it is not too suspicious. What you would then want to do is to place them in a nice place by your fireplace or wood stove. Place them in a little basket next to the kindling or in a little box next to the kindling. I am sure you get the idea. ***NOTE: Do not use this method if you would not normally have a need for firestarters..i.e. you have no fireplace or woodstove.*** Ok, now lets move on to the process of making them.

    What you want to do first is acquire a good amount of sawdust. After you have that, melt the wax. ***Note: It is preferred that you use colorless wax for starters…such as paraffin wax. After your wax is consistently melted and smooth, incorporate the sawdust small amounts at a time and mix it well. Do not over mix. Keep adding until you come to the correct proportions. You will have to play with this to get it right, but your end product should be largely sawdust held together by minimal wax. However, you want it to be solid and not easily crumbly. The surfaces will most likely be rough and not smooth, which is fine. After this is done, pour some of the wax into the mold to make a bottom. Then add your goods (preferably contained in a "tight" baggy) and then proceed to pour the rest of the wax in to completely surround the goods. Remember, do not allow any sides of the baggy to protrude. Let it set and remove from the mold. Now place in an inconspicuous location. This one will work well. Just remember NOT TO THROW IT INTO THE FIRE!!! Mark it inconspicuously with your fingernail or something. An exploding amp in the fireplace would not be too cool.

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    Part 2

    4) Firelog/Firewood
    This method is pretty good also. However, it might be a bit more difficult to make. What you want to do here is to acquire a piece of firewood or a plain wooden log. Make sure it is of a size to fit in a fireplace or wood stove. Follow the same practice as with the firestarter in that you want to place it near a stove or fireplace. Make it look ordinary. It would be best to place it at the bottom of the woodpile. You can also use this method and place it outside on your outdoor woodpile, but it should be brought in during extreme temperature months. On to the process.

    If you use a piece of firewood, it may be more difficult to work with vs. a round log. Firewood tends to already have been split in some way and the bark removed. Regardless, it can still be done. You goal here is to split the piece of wood into 2 pieces; preferably down the middle. Once you accomplish that, you then will need to hollow out a cavity on the inside of both pieces of wood. Make them as even to each other as possible and be sure the cavity is deep enough to hold your desired goods. If it is too shallow, an amp could be broken, etc. You are actually hollowing out a "gully" on each of the pieces of wood on the inside. When it is finished and the pieces are put together again, it should form a box shape or a doughnut shaped "compartment." You can best make the compartment with a hammer and sharp chisel or drill with a forstner bit or some other large wood boring bit. Make sure the compartments are not too deep as to weaken the structural integrity of the log. When it is finished (it does not have to be pretty or smooth, just functional), prepare your goods again and insert them into the cavity. Place the 2 pieces together being sure you are not crushing anything and that the fit is very good. If all checks out, separate them again and run a thick bead of wood glue around the inside of both pieces of wood. Try to leave plenty of room from the cavity so glue does not seep into it when it is compressed. After this is done, put the 2 piece together again being sure to line them up correctly. Then use either a woodworking strap clamp or some other device to press the 2 pieces together. Thoroughly wipe off any excess glue that seeps out of the seam. Let it dry for a good 24 hours and then remove the clamp. Place the log in an inconspicuous place and that's it. Another safe place for your goods. Again, be sure NOT TOO THROW it into the fire!!! Note: You can use different things to clamp the pieces together besides a woodworking clamp. Use pieces of rag and bring them together and tie them tight with a strong stick (like a tourniquet). You can also use bungie cords. Just be sure to use plenty of pressure so the seem is as unnoticeable as possible. It is also best to use 2 clamps on the piece of wood instead of just 1 in the center.

    5) Bricks / Other Masonry Forms
    This method can be quite difficult and chances are that 99% of you will not want to use it. But it is an incredibly ingenious way to conceal the goods. It is a method similar to the cement decorator block except that you will use bricks instead. I am only very briefly going to cover this because it will most likely not be used by anyone. I have done it before and a good friend uses this method solely. Here is how it works.

    The idea is that you will be using the bricks as a flowerbed border, very small-bricked area (such as to stand a grill on), etc. You will be making your own bricks using a purchased or rented brick mold and either cement or adobe. If you use cement or concrete, you will also want to purchase some cement dye for coloration. Use red or gray. You will then need an equal quantity of small boxes for as many bricks as you intend to make. The best thing to use here are old plastic audiocassette tape boxes with the plastic "sticks" cut out of them. Then bag you amp or orals and place them into the case. Seal the cases with tape or wax (to keep the cement out). It is also advisable to lube the cassette case so it will come out easier when the brick is broken. Then follow the same basic procedure of placing a bottom layer of cement or adobe into the mold. Place in the cassette case, and then fill the rest of the mold. It may be best to let the bottom layer set a little first so that the cassette case does not sink to the bottom and protrude through. Also note that you will most likely need some for of masonry lube on the side of the mold. To extract the goods, just carefully crack them open with a hammer. That is a brief overview that should give you a good idea of how to do it.

    The acquaintance of mine has a 40+ brick area in his back yard off of his porch that he uses as a grill platform. Most all the bricks contain goods. He went to the extra trouble of making extra bricks that are NOT loaded so he can replace the loaded bricks as he pulls them up to use them.

    6) Doorframes / Windowframes / Doors / etc.
    Ok. This idea will require some special tools and possibly some basic wood working skills. The idea is to "bore" holes into various forms of wood products and create a cavity for the goods that can be then concealed. It is not as easy as the firewood method in that you may be working with elements of your home that must then be made to look untouched after the cavity is filled. Here are a few things I have done.

    I once lived in an older apartment that had thick, wooden doors, doorframes, and window frames and sills. What I would do is use a ROUTER to router out a nice square cavity in the door, etc. It is easiest to use a plunge router. These can be rented if you do not have one. I will use one example for detail. I went to the wooden doorframe and marked off a spot above the bottom door hinge. I routed out a cavity approximately the same size as the door hinge. After I had it a good size, I placed a tightly wrapped baggies of orals into the cavity. I then proceed to cut a thin piece of balsa wood out to cover the cavity. It must be a good fit for best results. The balsa was glued into place. I then sanded the area and covered any seems with drywall paste. You can use spackling or whatever you wish. The area was again sanded. After all was smooth, the area was painted to match. It is best to repaint the entire doorframe or whatever you worked on so it does not stand out. You can also "antique" the area if you wish so it is not suspicious. Antiquing is the process of making new wood and paint look old. Put a few dings in it and scratches, etc. There it is. The reason I chose an area right above the door hinge and kept the cavity the same approximate size in case the areas seems should happen to show a little. If they do, then it will just look like a spot where a previous door hinge was located before another door was installed. One note: If you do not want to use balsa wood as a cover, then just pack the area in with the spackling or drywall mud and finish it. This may even work better.

    This method can be used in many locations. The only drawback is that it usually does not allow for a lot of storage space unless you do an entire doorframe. And yes, that has been done before as well.

    7) Wooden Box Top
    This one is similar to the above but it is not as difficult because you are not working with elements of your house. I had this wooden box that was designed as a Sportsmen's box. It would hold gunning stuff like cleaning kits and shotgun shells, etc. It had a nice woodland scene embossed into it. The lid opened up and had hinges on the back. It also had a hook for a padlock. It was something like 30" wide X 20" high X 12" deep. The best part about it was the lid. It was standard ¾" thick pine but it had an additional piece of shaped wood mounted onto the top of it. It was done as a design so the top of the box was not just flat and plain. This decorator top was only slightly smaller that the top of the box and it had 2 rounded ends and a beveled edge. It too was ¾" thick pine. What I found was that the decorator piece was screwed into the top from the inside of the top. There were no screw holes visible on the outside. What I did was to unscrew the decorator top and router out a long cavity into the actual top under where the decorator piece laid. I routed out an equal cavity into the decorator top. You could use a chisel or carving tool as well. When I was done, I glued cotton onto the bottom of each cavity. I laid about 40+ amps into the actual top on the cotton. I then placed the decorator top back on being sure all was line up correctly and that nothing was being crushed. I then rescrewed them together. That's it. NOTE: You will need to mark where the screws will come through the cavity so that when you screw the pieces back together you do not screw through an amp. You could also use a very thin bead of glue if you wish.

    The reason I really like this one is because if law enforcement is searching your place, they will be concentrating on the contents of the box. They will always be looking for something firearms related to try to nail you on. They will not think at all that you hollowed out the top and have the stuff hidden in there. A very good hiding place. Remember, if you do not have any firearms, then put old book, pics, or whatever in the box. Let it look like it has a very legitimate purpose being there.

    8) Shower Rods / Towel Bars
    This will depend on the type of rods and bars you have in your house. I used this method most when I was in the military and lived in the barracks. The towel bars were hollow metal rods and the anchors were firmly mounted into the wall. If I remember correctly, I do not think the anchors were removable. In any case, I remember banging down on the bar so it slightly bent and fell out. I then packed cotton into one end and then just slid in an amp followed by more cotton, then an amp, etc… the cotton keep the amps protected and from rattling at all. I got a hell of a lot of amps in there. I then placed the bar back into the anchors and bent it back to shape and faced the crease in the metal towards the wall so it was not visible. It remained strong enough to hold plenty of wet towels and it was never suspected. We use to have a lot of barracks inspections looking for "contraband." It fooled all those officers and NCOs every time. I did this for years. Also, if someone had seen the crease in the metal, it would not have been suspicious. The reason is that the barracks were usually a little torn up anyway from all the guys fighting or getting drunk and pissed off and wrecking them up. So, it was never looked at twice.

    As far as shower rods go, see if it is hollow and if it can be kept secure. You could get a hell of a lot of stuff in there. Just use your imagination and work with it.

    NOTE: Any items stored in a bathroom must be properly packaged to prevent damage from moisture and steam. This mainly applies to orals and pins.

    9) Dog****
    Yes…dog****. This is merely a humorous story I wanted to mention briefly. An acquaintance of mine use to buy his stuff off a local gym rat who then got nailed. He apparently squealed and my acquaintance found out and then got paranoid as hell. He swore he was being watched. It all happened rather quickly, so what he did was to go out into his back yard one dark evening and jammed amps into the piles of dog**** his dog left in the yard. He gave the amps a quick wax coating first. I guess it worked because he was questioned and the cops did check his place out. They came up with zilch thanks to his fast thinking. He flushed the few orals he had though. Note: This method is not recommended.

    Also note had my acquaintance properly prepared himself long ago, he would not have had to go to such an extreme and would not have been so damn paranoid with a shoebox of goods sitting in his closet. He lucked out, you may not. Take the precautions now!!!
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    Sorry bro, I couldn't get through it all...LOL

    But It has a lot of good points... Gotta keep your **** safe!
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